Chez Rose

Mayfair·Modern French bistro·££££

A French-leaning list built for a Mayfair bistro rather than a trophy room: grower and vintage Champagne alongside the big houses, a strong Loire and Alsace white run, Coravin pours of serious back vintages (2009 Volnay Les Caillerets, 2000 Château Petit-Village Pomerol) by the glass, and a large-format section for the table. Around 194 labels from £35 to £820, with markups independent review has called fair for central London.